In brief
- The return of formalwear is confirmed by an 8% increase in shirt sales recorded in France.
- The maisons Paul Smith, EgonLab and Louis Vuitton establish the bold trend of the layered double shirt.
- The season’s elegance oscillates between gothic-inspired all-black and unexpected touches of yellow.
- The tie breaks free from the traditional jacket to pair directly with jumpers and jackets at Saint Laurent Paris.
Men’s fashion for the Autumn-Winter 2026 season promises a formal revival and stylistic audacity, revealed during the Paris Fashion Week runway shows. Between the rediscovered rigour of formal silhouettes and a cleverly studied casualness, artistic directors are shaking up the traditional codes of masculine elegance. The analysis of lookbooks and presentations from Paris Fashion Week highlights twelve major trends that are set to redefine contemporary allure.
The strong comeback of the shirt in men’s fashion
The great return of the formal wardrobe
After several seasons dominated by casual streetwear, formal pieces are regaining control of the masculine wardrobe. Men’s shirt sales thus show a notable increase of 8% in France, according to data published by the organisation Refashion. This renewed interest reflects a desire for structure and everyday sophistication, positioning the shirt as the indispensable cornerstone of the cold season.
The layering of the double shirt
Far from settling for rigid classicism, designers are exploring new ways to wear this wardrobe staple. The stylistic exercise of the layered double shirt emerges as one of the strongest proposals of the winter, spotted notably at Paul Smith, EgonLab and Louis Vuitton. This layering creates an unprecedented play on volume and brings a singular textural depth to the silhouette.
Relaxed and refreshed tailoring
The traditional suit is undergoing a revolution, abandoning its former rigidity in favour of fluid and generous cuts. The maison Saint Laurent Paris perfectly illustrates this transition towards softened tailoring, where the jacket is deconstructed to accompany the body’s movement with nonchalant ease. Elegance is no longer synonymous with constraint, but with absolute freedom of movement.
The tie breaks free from the jacket
The tie breaks free from codes
The ultimate formal accessory, the tie breaks free from its academic chains to enjoy a new lease of life. It now frees itself from the obligation of being paired with a suit jacket, becoming a graphic element in its own right that structures the outfit autonomously. This stylistic step aside breathes a wind of modernity and impertinence into the season’s masculine allure.
Pairing the tie with jumpers and jackets
In this dynamic of reinvention, the tie ventures into decidedly more casual territories. It is now unexpectedly paired with knitwear jumpers and leather jackets, creating a striking contrast between casualness and formal rigour. This clashing of genres redefines the boundaries of the office and urban wardrobes.
Gothic aesthetic with rock accents
A dark and theatrical aesthetic
A romantic and theatrical darkness takes over the Parisian catwalks for the cold season. This highly rock-infused gothic elegance breathes dramatic tension into the Autumn-Winter 2026 silhouettes, recalling the influence of musical subcultures on haute couture. Heavy textures, sharp cuts and metallic details perfect this nocturnal and mysterious allure.
All-black as a chromatic signature
To accompany this dark movement, the monochrome silhouette asserts itself with force. All-black becomes the season’s most radical and elegant stylistic statement, applied to all pieces of an outfit. The play of light is then created solely through the contrast of materials, from the matte of wool cloth to the satin sheen of silks.
Bright bursts of an unexpected yellow
To break the monotony of winter hues, a vibrant shade shakes up the colour palette. Unexpected bursts of solar yellow awaken the dark silhouettes of winter, bringing a welcome touch of optimism and energy. This colour is expressed in precise touches, on an accessory, a lining or a contrasting piece of knitwear.
Graphic and asymmetric stripes
The stripe pattern, a great classic of the suit, is given an artistic and dynamic interpretation. The designer Paul Smith offers layers of fine blue and pink stripes, playing on the chromatic contrasts between the collar and the body of the garment. This graphic approach breathes fantasy and a discreet sophistication into the formal pieces of the collection.
Artistic motifs and pen sketches
Art invites itself directly onto the fabric to personalise the season’s silhouettes. Certain pieces are adorned with delicate drawings and sketches that seem to be hand-drawn in pen, bringing a poetic and almost artisanal dimension to the garment. This dialogue between fashion and illustration lends an aura of intellectual exclusivity to the pieces thus adorned.
The reinvention of the checked shirt
The checked shirt, traditionally associated with casual and utilitarian wardrobes, joins luxury collections in a new light. The maison Dior Homme reinterprets this traditional pattern through noble materials and highly precise cuts, elevating this everyday classic to the rank of a high-crafted piece. It is the perfect illustration of refinement applied to masculine essentials.
Military ornamentation and ceremonial aiguillettes
The military influence is expressed this season through the prism of pageantry and ceremony rather than pure utility. Dior Homme integrates aiguillettes and fringed epaulettes inspired by officers’ uniforms, elevating structured silhouettes. These details of textile craftsmanship bring historical nobility and a singular solemnity to the contemporary wardrobe.
