Balenciaga names Martine Rose creative director after Piccioli exit

Two statements in two days closed one chapter and opened the next. Balenciaga hands its creative direction to Martine Rose, a designer from the London scene, barely sixteen months after Pierpaolo Piccioli arrived. For Kering, the stakes go beyond the house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga: the group wants to renew several of its labels at once.

Martine Rose takes over on 16 November

The 6 November statement announces her appointment as Creative Director, the exact title chosen by Kering, and describes it as “a new chapter in the House’s creative evolution”. She will be based in Paris and take up her role on Monday 16 November 2026.

“It is a true privilege to be appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga,” the designer said. Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering, praised “a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision” and her “connection to the new generation”. For Gianfranco Gianangeli, President and CEO of Balenciaga, she knows how to “reinvent silhouettes”.

A designer shaped by subcultures

Martine Rose launched her label in 2007. Kering describes a language rooted in subculture, music, identity and the social codes of dress, and work that challenges established conventions of fashion and masculinity. Her shows extend this approach through their venues and casting.

A sought-after consultant according to the statement, she has worked on many collaborations: her label lists Nike in 2023, Supreme in 2024 and 2026, Clarks, Napapijri, Stüssy and Tommy Jeans. Kering also stresses her “deep understanding” of Balenciaga’s creative identity; according to several sources, she previously worked there as a menswear consultant alongside Demna, a point the group does not detail.

Piccioli, just under 16 months

Appointed on 19 May 2025, then with the title of artistic director in the French statement, Pierpaolo Piccioli took up his role on 10 July 2025, succeeding Demna, who left for Gucci after ten years leading the house’s creative direction. The announcement of his exit, on Thursday 5 November 2026, gives neither a reason nor an end date. His tenure therefore lasted just under 16 months, the span of a few seasons.

Gianfranco Gianangeli says he “reaffirmed the couture origins of the House”. Luca de Meo calls him “an exceptional couturier”. During his tenure, the Spring 26 collection introduced 3D weaving, developed with the start-up Weffan, and an AMSilk bio-engineered silk that makes Balenciaga, according to Kering, the first fashion house to use this type of material. His couture also left its mark on the July 2026 season.

Why is Kering changing course?

The answer lies in third-quarter sales, published on 22 October 2026. Kering’s revenue reached 3,345 million euros, stable on a reported basis and down 1% on a comparable basis. Balenciaga proved resilient in leather goods, but ready-to-wear and footwear remained under pressure. Luca de Meo, now at the head of the group, wrote at the time: “we are stepping up our efforts to renew Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen”.

Saint Laurent, McQueen, Balenciaga: one month

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s exit is part of a series. On 9 October, Saint Laurent announced the departure of Anthony Vaccarello, creative lead since 2016. On 15 October, Alexander McQueen announced that of Seán McGirr, who joined in 2023. Balenciaga is the first of the three houses to name a successor. At Gucci, Demna has led the creative direction since July 2025, with a first show in Milan closely watched by the market.

A house founded in 1917

According to Kering, Cristóbal Balenciaga founded his house in 1917 in San Sebastián, before opening his couture house at 10 avenue George V in Paris in 1937. Le Dix, the first fragrance, dates from 1947; the Sack dress from 1957. Balenciaga joined the group in 2001, the year of the Le City bag, then returned to couture in 2021 after 53 years of absence.

What is still to be announced

Kering has not said when Martine Rose will present her first collection for Balenciaga, nor whether she will keep running her own label. At Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, the successors to Anthony Vaccarello and Seán McGirr have not yet been named. 16 November will therefore mark the first act of the creative renewal launched by Luca de Meo.

Information verified on 9 November 2026. Sources: Kering statement of 6 November 2026, Kering statement of 5 November 2026, Kering statement of 19 May 2025, Kering third-quarter 2026 revenue.